The next morning we had nice South Indian Kaapi (coffee, but you get black sludge, hot milk, and sugar, and you mix to your liking), then after a while, breakfast. I couldn't stomach any more Indian food, so I had cornflakes and bananas and boiling hot milk. Cold milk just isn't done here. If I put only a few scattered teaspoons of milk on the cornflakes, and a lot of sugar, and wait a while before eating, and put a bit of banana in each bite, it's quite palatable.
It's nice walking with Periyamma or a guy; tourist-catchers will talk to them first, and not to me, because, as a young female, I'm pretty near the bottom of the pecking order. We went to Spencer's again; a lot of white people, where there had been none two days before. Wonder why the rush? European schools must have just gotten out, or something. Some looked like school groups; some were wearing semi-Indian clothing. One couple, white-girl-brown-boy, made me so lonely and homesick (or Bob-sick). Holding hands, too.
There are a lot of new things. More boy-girl couples holding hands (we saw a very cute such couple in Goa, slipping off for a canoodle in the woods from time to time, and another such on the plane from Bangalore), more girls wearing modern Indian clothing (sleeveless, tighter, shorter tunic tops, etc.), and a lot more girls wearing jeans and western or Indian short tops like ones I bought at Globus store in Bombay. Don't see that as much down in Madurai; it's more small-town still. Some cute guys, too; Tamil girls are generally not much to look at, compared with Telugu or Malayalee ones (or Punjabis like Simran, who's considered too fat for Hindi film and a little thin for Tamil film, but haunts the dreams of most people here in Tamilnadu) but the guys can be quite attractive, especially if they buck the trend by not wearing a moustache.
The shops are also different; many are the same from four years ago, but there are new pharmacies with Revlon and Sally Hansen and other western and Indian pharmaceutical products (they tried to sell me skin-lightening cream!); and gyms and fitness-wear shops and equipment shops. It started with Hrithik Roshan five years ago, and there was even an article in the Hindu the morning I wrote this entry about the new trend in health foods, health-awareness, exercise, etc., things that would have been unthinkable just a few years ago. Over the past three months, I've seen countless articles on the newfound health craze. Realization that tying a turmeric-dyed cord around your wrist won't do as much to help your diabetes as watching your diet will; realization that the typical Indian style of weight gain, the one that leads to pregnant men (carry all your excess weight right in front on your stomach, and none anywhere else), is the least healthy way to gain weight; learning that taking exercise won't make you low-caste (in the brahmin-only Veda schools we've visited, the teenage boys are all flabby as anything, because it's considered low-caste to have to do manual labour); and so forth. In addition to the smoothie shop, they also have a brand-new Subway, complete with Jared and weight-loss ads out front. All full of Indians in various stages of westernisation. I'm in favor of it; take what's good from each culture and resist the bad. There are people who have gone so far overboard in both directions with medicine: a lot of western doctors (or westernized ones) who reject ayurvedic medicine purely because it's ayurvedic; also Indians (and Indianized westerners) who have complete faith in them, even if they're laced with lead and will kill you. Better are the scientists who look into ayurvedic medicine and do western research on it to see if it's worth using or not! (Remember, hemlock is all-natural!)
That's all for today; soon: Introduction to my program; Visit to a village; the mountain temple of Palani, and Ooty!
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